City Diaries: Palermo
One of my favorite countries to visit is Italy. Traveling to Rome was actually my first adult international trip. Throughout the years, my travels have taken to me Cinque Terra, Pisa, Milan, Firenze and Sardinia, but after reading this city diary, Palermo is next on my list!
Let’s check out some of Linda’s favorite places in Palermo. Oh, and pro-tip, make sure to pay special attention to all of her food picks—I mean, it’s a no brainer to take food reccos from a chef!
Favorite Restaurant
Casual - Vecchia Trattoria da Totò, Via Coltellieri, 6 (a hidden lunch spot in the Vucciria market for heaping plates of pasta and grilled/fried fish. Simple and cheap with no-frills whatsoever)
Fancy - Corona Trattoria, Via Guglielmo Marconi, 9 (Affordable, friendly family-owned seafood restaurant)
Favorite Cafe
Casa Stagnitta, Discesa dei Giudici, 46 (best coffee in town, oldest family-owned roaster)
Where to Stay
Palazzo Sovrana luxury apartments right across the street from the Teatro Massimo opera house, one of the best views in town! www.palazzosovrana.it (& make sure to tell them Linda Sarris sent you)
Via Bara All'Olivella, 78, 90133 Palermo
Must See Tourist Spot
The view of the Fontana Pretoria fountain at Quattro Canti from the rooftop terrace (€5) of the Chiesa di Santa Caterina d'Alessandria monastery!
Piazza Bellini, 33, 90133 Palermo PA
Must See Off the Beaten Path
Palazzo dei Normanni, Piazza Indipendenza, 1 (Arab-Norman-Byzantine royal palace)
Camera Delle Meraviglie, Via Porta di Castro, 239 (visit this private residence with a reservation to see the magical blue room decorated with Arabic calligraphic inscriptions)
Favorite Neighborhood to explore
Ballarò - visit the vibrant outdoor food market and scout out some of the city’s best street art and murals, then stop for lunch at Moltivolti for an authentic taste of our very special multi-ethnic neighborhood.
Via Giuseppe Mario Puglia, 21
Favorite Place for Drinks
My go-to bar is on a small alleyway behind the Piazza Sant’Anna. At Botanico Bar, they have friendly service, simple snacks, and most importantly talented and creative bartenders. They also serve brunch on the weekend -- which is how I found them originally, it’s not something you come by often here in Sicily, especially done well!
Vicolo dei Corrieri, 38
Favorite Local Getaway
Farmstay cooking lessons at the Anna Tasca Lanza Cooking School
Skip the crowds of the nearby beach of Mondello and take a swim off the rocks in Addaura or the Riserva Naturale di Capo Gallo nature reserve.
Favorite Shopping Area
Although we have a high-end shopping district (Via della Libertà) that includes Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Hermès, and Dolce & Gabbana, I prefer to shop locally from small businesses. Here are a few of my favorites:
Edizioni Precarie, Via Alessandro Paternostro, 75 (prints and paper goods)
Marlon Vintage Store, Via Paolo Paternostro, 41A/41B (vintage clothing + vinyls)
Mercato di Piazza Marina, Piazza Marina (flea market on Saturday/Sunday mornings)
Favorite Spa
Check out the Hammam Bagno Turco (Turkish bath; €40) in the historic center Palermo, just off of Via della Libertà, in the main shopping district.
Via Torrearsa, 17/d, 90139 Palermo PA
Absolute favorite thing to do in Palermo?
Mangia! I have spent the last ten years studying and tasting my way through the world of Sicilian food and wine. It has one of the most unique cuisines in Italy due to the complex layers of Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Norman, and Spanish history which all left their mark on the island in some way or another. If you find yourself in Palermo, I can take you for a chef-led food tour to visit the outdoor markets and try the city’s best street food.
If you had one last day in Sicily, how would you spend it?
Skinny dipping at sunset in the Spiaggia di Isulidda bay in Macari, just outside of San Vito lo Capo, a 1-hour and 40-minute drive from Palermo.
Contrada Isulidda, 91010 San Vito Lo Capo, Trapani