City Diaries: Paris
It was so wonderful being back in my favorite city in the world—it was almost as if I had never left. Here are some of my favorite go-to’s when I’m in town. Some old, some new, but all great!
Favorite Restaurants
Brasseries
My favorite local brasserie is Domaine d’Olléac. They specialize in southwestern fare like cassoulet and duck. I love going there in the fall and winter months because it is so warm and cozy; you feel like you are in a friend’s home vs any old restaurant. The owner is really friendly and fluent in English, though I torture him by practicing my French :)
My other favorite brasserie is Le Grand Colbert, and not just because it is the brasserie Keanu Reaves takes Diane Keaton to in Something’s Gotta Give. This brasserie is a definite must if you love architecture and ambiance. Like its name, it is definitely grand, but they don’t just rest on their laurels. The food and wine list are definitely up to par with many of the fine dining restaurants that exist in Paris. If you are a meat lover, definitely get the chateaubriand and if you love oysters, I will have to say I have had some of my best oysters here.
Tasting Menu
Arpége is one of my favorite tasting menus of all time. Alain Passard is a culinary genius IMHO. Though they are known for their vegetables, which are grown in their on-site garden, I would opt for the mer and terre tasting, which is a gastronomical explosion including meat and fish dishes. It is a 3 michelin star restaurant, so it is pricey, but totally worth it. There is also a lunch tasting if you are a first timer here and not looking to spend so much on a meal.
If I had to pick a second favorite tasting menu, it would have to be Septime. As with Arpège, the menu changes seasonally. They are more reasonably priced, and a good reason to venture into the 11th arrondissement. They also have Clamato, their more casual restaurant, if you are not into tasting menus, and their wine bar, Septime la cave.
Outdoor Restaurant
My favorite is Le Cour Jardin at Plaza Athenee. I think I literally lived there this visit. It is a nice oasis if you want to feel like you are escaping the city.
Rooftop
Gigi won my heart with its indoor and outdoor option for dining with a stunning terrace and view of the Eiffel Tower and live performances in the indoor space. A DJ starts around midnight if you want to dance the night away. Le Tout Paris and Langosteria at Cheval Blanc do get honorable mentions for the service and view.
New (for me) and Noteworthy
My friend and foodie made us a reservation at Rooster Paris and it did not disappoint. The dishes were creative and delicious and the desserts were a work of art. Definitely make a resy here before everyone discovers this hidden gem.
Favorite Cafes
Judy is my home when I’m on the left bank. Their menu is Californian inspired and uber healthy—think green juices and gluten free.
Café Obrkof is my new home on the right bank for great coffee, American brunch fare and friendly service.
Where to Stay
My favorite area of Paris hands down is the left bank, more specifically, the 6th and the 7th. It’s less pedestrian and I also feel like there is more green space and the air quality is better.
I normally rent apartments and prefer Plum Guide, now that I no longer have a full time apartment in Paris.
As for hotels, I prefer boutique hotels vs large chains. My favorite to date is Hôtel Récamier in Saint Suplice (6ème). The hotel is very charming and old worldly and pretty central to everything.
If you prefer a more full service hotel, I recommend The Plaza Athénée on Avenue Montaigne. This hotel is the epitome of luxury IMHO.
Must See Tourist Spot
The Eiffel Tower and Montmarte. I did this again on this trip since I was with my family and highly recommend. I may even do it again when I am back in fall!
Make sure to book tickets in advance so you are not waiting on line. If this is your first time going to the Eiffel Tower I highly suggest a tour with a guide, as the grounds are confusing to navigate, especially if you are just looking to do just the summit.
As for Montmartre, it is just fun to wander the winding cobble stone streets up there as it is very old worldly—you feel like you are taken back in time. Definitely make it to the top where Sacre Cœur is so you can get the best views of Paris, especially at sunset. Bring a bottle of wine and a friend or two and watch the sun go down in Paris up here—it is truly majestic. If you have a death wish (like me) take the steps all the way up. There is also the funicular which is much easier and only the price of a Metro Ticket.
Must See Off the Beaten Path
Image Source: Paris Pass
Versailles. Versailles, Versailles! I did not get to go on this trip, but do plan on visiting again when I return this fall.
For my first visit here, I did horseback riding in the gardens at dawn, then toured the Petit Trianon (aka Marie Antoinette’s home), and high sped it through the Palace bc we ran out of time. I definitely want to spend more time in the Palace after just bingewatching the Netflix Series, Versailles. (Seriously, if you plan on gong, DEFINITELY watch this series!) Now that I know more about the history and Louis XIV’s vision and reign, I feel like I will experience it at a whole new level.
I definitely recommend doing a guided tour of Versailles as there is so much history to learn and absorb. I like this one a lot because it includes a guided tour of the Palace and Trianon, plus roundtrip transport from Paris so you don’t have to worry about getting there and back.
Favorite Neighborhood to explore
I would have to say the Marais, Saint Germain and Ile Saint Louis are my favorites to walk around and get lost stumble into a cute cafe or small designer shop. There is really so much to discover just walking around random streets throughout the city.
Favorite Place for Drinks
I would seriously live in Hemingway Bar if I could. This is the one place I go to multiple times EVERY time I am in Paris. Yes, it is worth the cost. You can read my full write up here. If you are into cocktail culture or fun conversation, get a seat at the bar vs one of the tables and chat it up with head bartender and the king, Colin Peter Field.
Sequoia at the Kimpton is now one of my go to places when I’m in town. Their rooftop is pretty calm during the day and the afternoon, which I love and a full on party on some evenings. It also has a nice view of the Eiffel tower.
Favorite Local Getaway
You cannot go to France without seeing the Champagne Region (Reims & Epernay) or going to Bourgogne, or as the Americans call it, Burgundy. Why we rename other countries cities is beyond me, but Burgundy reds and whites are my favorites! Both are perfect weekend getaways.
Favorite Shopping Area
Saint Germain and Marais
Favorite Spa
Image Source: Luxury Link
Ritz Club & Spa. You can read more about my love affair here.
Absolute favorite thing to do in Paris
I love to just walk around! And my favorite thing to do on Saturday am is go the Farmer’s Market. France and Europe in general have the freshest produce and best cheese! They also have some great antique markets and clothing markets that pop up throughout the year. I have gotten many unique pieces that I still treasure till this day. Here’s a list of some of the markets in Paris.
If you had one last day in Paris, how would you spend it?
I go back and forth quite often, but if I was never to return…
Walking around Paris, a wine filled lunch somewhere with friends for some great conversation and people watching, then some (overserved) shopping on Saint Honore, at some point dinner then drinks at Hemingway, dancing at Gigi and/or Manko and take a bottle of Champagne by the Eiffel Tower to watch the sunrise.